Yuav luag txhua lub tuam txhab kev lag luam muaj ib txoj kab ntawm cosmetic npaj raws li lub koom haum ANA. Qhov zoo tshaj plaws ntawm cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce yog qhov tsis muaj hnub nyoog txwv. ANA-tshuaj pleev ib ce siv tau raws li qhov qhia tau los ntawm cov thaum tseem hluas. Cov tom kawg yog qhov zoo rau cov tawv nqaij ntawm cov neeg laus, rau pigmented ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
Cov nyhuv ntawm AHA tshuaj pleev ib ce
Cov teebmeem nram no yog paub, muab los ntawm AHA tshuaj pleev ib ce:
- anti-inflammatory;
- antioxidant;
- exfoliating - alpha hydroxy acids tsis muaj zog cov compound ntawm corneocytes nyob rau hauv stratum corneum ntawm daim tawv nqaij;
- moisturizing, ua tsaug rau qhov rov ua dua ntawm cov kab mob epidermis;
- activates lub synthesis ntawm collagen thiab glycosaminoglycans, vim qhov stimulating nyhuv ntawm AXA ntawm fibroblast hlwb;
- ua rau lub cev tawv nqaij dua;
- txo lub qhov tob ntawm wrinkles; qhov ncauj qhov ntswg ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
Qhov zoo ntawm alpha hydroxy acids
Cov tshuaj pleev ib ce nrog alpha hydroxy acids pab txhawb qhov nrhiav tau ntawm cov tawv nqaij ntawm daim tawv nqaij, los ntawm kev tshem cov tuag, qub hlwb. Hauv lwm lo lus, ANA muaj cov nyhuv zaub mov. Tsis tas li ntawd, alpha hydroxy acids uas yog qhov zoo tshaj rau cov phom membrane, yog qhov chaw tshiab cov kua qoob loo tsim tawm. Cov txiv qaub kua txiv yuav siv tau rau cov tawv nqaij, ua rau qee yam khoom xoob, ua tsaug rau lub teeb ci. Nws tau pom tias AHA ntawm qis concentrations nce txog daim tawv nqaij rov qab thiab thinens lub thickness ntawm lub stratum corneum. AHA nyob rau hauv siab ntau slides lub epidermis thiab ces yuav ncaj qha mus rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij naderm. Nco ntsoov tias tev nrog cov acids hauv cov concentration ntawm 20% lossis ntau dua yuav tsum tau ua hauv cov chaw zoo nkauj. Nws zoo dua rau kev tso siab rau txoj haujlwm no rau cov tub txawg.
Txoj kev xav ntawm kev ntxhov siab
Raws li txoj kev xav ntawm txoj kev nyuab siab, AXA muaj nws cov nyhuv los ntawm kev tsim kom muaj kev sib tshuam hauv cov kab mob. Tshuaj hlawv tshuaj muaj ib qho kev nyuab siab, uas ua rau cov tawv nqaij tiv thaiv kab mob. Kozhamobilizuet nws cov kev pabcuam hauv nruab nrog, pib tsim tau cov tseem ceeb ntawm cov tshuaj molecules, qhov kev ua ub ua no ntawm cov kabmob yog qhov muaj zog ntxiv. Yog li, qaug ntawm alpha hydroxy acids, lub dermis thickens thiab thinning ntawm cov epidermis. Vim yog cov txheej txheem cov stratum corneum ua ntau dua elastic thiab elastic, zoo wrinkles ntawm daim tawv nqaij nto cov ntse smoothed.
Lub ntsiab ntawm alpha hydroxy acids uas yog siv hauv kev lag luam zoo nkauj
- Tartaric acid. Nws yog tsiag ntawv los ntawm ib tug bleaching, moisturizing, exfoliating siv. Nyob rau hauv high concentrations yog muaj nyob rau hauv lub qub cawu cub, oranges, paub tab grapes.
- Glycolic acid. Nws tau tshwm sim tias qhov ANA no txhawb nqa qhov kev tawm ntawm sebum, exfoliation ntawm cornified dos rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Glycolic acid thiaj li tshwm sim ntawm txoj kev mob hyperpigmentation. Cov kua qaub no muaj lub plab nyhav qis tshaj plaws, uas tso cai rau nws yooj yim nkag mus rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab ua kom nrov sai. Nws tau qhia tias kev siv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce raws li glycolic acid rau 3-6 lub hlis txo lub qhov tob ntawm wrinkles, tshem tawm cov kab zoo thiab ua kom pom cov nqaij pigmented ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Nyob rau hauv loj qhov ntau, nws yog pom nyob rau hauv qab zib cane, zoo li nyob rau hauv ntsuab txiv hmab.
- Citric acid. Muaj cov tshuaj dawb, cov kab mob thiab cov antioxidant. Qhov no acid muaj lub cev loj tshaj plaws hauv molecular. Lub ntsiab qhov ntawm citric acid yog cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo ntawm citrus nroj tsuag.
- Lactic acid yog ib qho zoo exfoliating thiab moisturizing nkaus. Cov kua qaub no tau ntev ntev tau siv rau hauv kev lag luam kom zoo nkauj li lub ntsiab lus moisturizing. Lub hauv paus ntawm lactic acid yog qaub mis nyuj, yoghurt, txiv apples, txiv hmab txiv ntoo, kua txiv lws suav, blueberries, maple phoov, passionflower.
- Kua kua qaub yog ib tug neeg ua hauj lwm zoo exfoliating, activates lub cellular metabolism, txhawb cov hlwb kom rov ua dua. Nws pom muaj nyob rau hauv txiv apples, txiv lws suav, thiab lwm yam zaub thiab txiv hmab txiv ntoo.
- Salicylic acid. Tsis siv rau alpha hydroxy acids, vim nws cov tshuaj formula muaj ib pawg phenetic beta-hydroxy acids. Hauv cosmetology, salicylic acid yog siv los txhim kho kab mob sib xyaw nrog cov kua txiv acids. Salicylic acid muaj keratolytic, antiseptic, antifungal effect. Nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm ethers nyob rau hauv lub birch bark, nyob rau hauv lub foliage ntawm gullet, lub evergreen ib nrab-shrub, teej tug mus rau tsev neeg ntawm heather. Yeej, tag nrho cov tshuaj pleev ib ce muaj ib txoj kab ntawm AHA acids, uas sib txuam ib leeg, yog li ntawd qhov kev xav tau ua tiav.
Contraindications
AHA-acids muaj qee qhov teeb meem, vim hais tias cov txheej txheem ntawm tshuaj hlawv tshuaj tsis haum txhua daim tawv nqaij. Yuav pib nrog, nws yog ib qho tsim nyog yuav tau ua qhov kev ntsuam xyuas rau tus kheej tsis kam ua rau ANA acids. Rau qhov no rau ntawm ib sab ntawm daim tawv nqaij sab nraum qab ntawm tes, koj yuav tsum tau thov kom muaj kev tiv thaiv, Muaj qhov ua siab ntev, khaus liab, khaus, hlawv, thiab mob tsis tsim nyob rau hauv qhov chaw no hauv 24 teev. Yog tias cov tshuaj tiv thaiv no tshwm sim, tsis txhob siv cov tshuaj no. Tsis txhob siv AHA-acid yog tias koj muaj kev sib tw, tawv nqaij. Tsis tas li ntawd, alpha hydroxy acids yog cov tshuaj tiv thaiv hauv cov hlab ntsha me me, cov kab mob sib kis, lwm yam kev raug mob, tshav kub thiab tom qab lub sij hawm ntev heev rau lub hnub.