Lub sijhawm plaub caug txuam nrog kev ua tsov rog. Thiab nyob rau hauv wartime, cov poj niam thiab cov txiv neej xav thiab hnav khaub ncaws fashionably. Dab tsi yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm cov tub rog xyoo plaub ntawm lub xyoo pua xeem?
Pib ntawm lub xyoo caum yog cim los ntawm kev sawv ntawm kev lag luam. Lub txim ntawm cov teeb meem ntawm cov thirties thaum ntxov muaj kev ruaj ntseg. Kev fais fab yuav nce zuj zus. Qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev sib tw ua ntej ntawm kev ua rog, lawv pib heev, muaj multilayered, dawb blouses, tsho-lanterns, voluminous bows. Tab sis lub ntsiab qauv yog ib daim hlab. Strips twg, stripes txhua qhov chaw. Feem ntau, cov qauv ntawm lub forties yog zoo li cov khaub ncaws ntawm Hispanic cov poj niam. Nrog Latin American motifs, ntau tus poj niam tau luam cov qauv ntawm cov hnub qub movie. Lwm qhov tsis tau tso tseg cov kev cai ntawm thirties - tus qauv ntawm ib tug ntxhais hluas.
Nws yog thaum pib ntawm lub forties cov poj niam pib tuaj nqa cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, hauv particular lipsticks, nyob rau hauv lub suab nrov ntawm ib pab tub rog. Nyob rau hauv dav dav, los ntawm lub sij hawm lipstick yog tsim txhua hom xim, thiab los ntawm kev sib luag yog nyob ze rau niaj hnub.
Tab sis tuaj lub tsov rog tsov rog xyoo, uas muab txhua yam upside down. Twb tau nyob rau xyoo 1941, ntau lub xeev tshaj tawm tias martial law. Paris, suav hais tias yog lub peev ntawm fashion, yog nyob los ntawm German tub rog. Lawm, zam tsev thiab lub khws raug kaw. Thiab kev tsim qauv ua tus kheej tailors rau cov poj niam ntawm "sab saum toj" ntawm tsoom fwv ntawm peb lub Reich.
Nyob rau hauv xyoo 1942, Tebchaws Meskas tau sau ib tsab cai loj "L-85". Tsoom Fwv Teb Chaws Pawg Neeg Ua Haujlwm Kev Ua Tub Rog raug txwv tsis pub siv cov khoom siv paj rwb thiab ntaub plaub rau cov neeg siv khaub ncaws. Rau cov laj thawj no, nws tau npaj siab los siv cov tshuaj lo acetate thiab viscose. Nws raug tso cai rau siv qhov tsawg kawg nkaus ntawm cov fabrics thiab xaiv ib tug txiav uas tsis muaj qhov tseem ceeb ornaments.
Lus Askiv kuj qhia tswv yim nruj rau txhua yam. Qhov no tsis cuam tshuam txog cov qauv khaub ncaws xwb, tab sis kuj yog qhov ntau ntawm txhua tus neeg. Nws yog thaum lub sij hawm wartime tias "pret-a-porter" originated. Nyob rau hauv cov xyoo, tag nrho cov zam designers, tailors thiab cutters twb sau mus rau hauv lub pab tub rog. Lawv tau muab tso rau hauv cov kev mob ntawm kev lag luam nruj heev. Qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev ua tub rog ntawm kev ua tub rog tau nyob hauv kev txiav thiab ib qho me me.
Hauv xyoo 1942 dawb ntsej muag thiab khoo ua qauv zoo nkauj. Qhov sib txawv no tseem ceeb, ob qho tib si rau poj niam thiab rau cov khaub ncaws ntawm txiv neej. Qhov kev zam no kuj yog tshwm sim los ntawm kev txuag ntawm wartime. Khoom rau ntawm tsho dawb tsis yog, thiab saib zoo zoo li txawm nyob rau hauv cov mob no.
Nyob hauv Tebchaws Europe, cov tub rog nyiam ua haujlwm. Nrov ntawm qhov kawg ntawm lub thirties, lub khwb ntawm thawj zaug me ntsis poob. Thiab ces lawv tau hloov los ntawm cov khaub hlab. Lub ntsiab xim ntawm cov khaub ncaws yog khaki los yog tsaus grey. Thiab rau cov weekend dresses - ib tug me me paj. Kuv yuav tsum tau tag nro cov lapels, lapels, pleated, ris thiab ployka.
Cov khoom kim heev tiag yog cov tshuaj tsw qab zoo tib yam. Tab sis cov lus Mev uas daws tau sai sai no qhov teeb meem. Lawv cov pob muag pom cov pob txha los ntoo, thiab tsis txhob siv cov xim pleev xim rau. Xws li tshuaj pleev ib ce "natyurel" sai sai thoob plaws hauv Tebchaws Europe. Hauv Teb Chaws Asmeskas, tsis muaj teeb meem zoo li no. Cov khoom ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tsis nres, tab sis tsuas yog poob. Kev xa cov khoom tsis muaj feem xyuam nrog cov khoom tseem ceeb raug txwv. Yog li ntawd, European poj niam ntawm zam tau deprived ntawm no Library kom txog thaum kawg ntawm lub forties.
Hauv Teb Chaws Asmeskas, txawm tias tsis muaj kev ua tub rog, lub teb chaws txoj kev lag luam raug xa mus rau tub rog. Cov qauv ntawm kev ua tub rog hauv Asmeskas tau muaj peb yam ntxwv. Cov tsho hnav tsoos tsho nco txog kev ua tub rog rau lub hauv paus yog thawj qhov tseeb. Qhov thib ob coj yog txoj haujlwm ua. Cov poj niam hnav ris tsho hnav ris tsho nrog lub duav thiab cov blouses uas ntsia zoo li cov tsho luv luv. Qhov kev taw qhia thib peb yog kev ntaus pob ncaws pob. Tag nrho cov tendencies tau nrog cov tsom American cov tsiv: cov kaus mom thiab cov corsets, Scarlett O'Hara-style outfits. Thiab no ua ke ntawm kev cai thiab kev nrhw hauv xyoo 1943 txig zoo nrog cov qauv tshiab ntawm "sib xyaw thiab phim."
Nws yog qhov lus cog tseg uas tau ua rau qhov kawg ntawm kev tsov rog hauv tebchaws Askiv. Conservative poj niam costume pib xaws los ntawm cov ntaub sib txawv, ob leeg nyob hauv hom thiab xim. Lub tsho tau luv zog kom ntev npaum li cas. Hauv hoob no, muaj cov pob txha-xaum, uas muaj cov ntaub so ntswg tsawg. Tab sis nkawm khau tau rais los ua qhov tseeb. Cov poj niam European yuav tsum coj khau los ntawm leatherette ntawm cov ntoo looj.
Tab sis kev tsov rog tau los xaus. Thiab cov poj niam yog cov nyiam heev rau cov khaub ncaws hnav. Lawv sawv kev muaj siab xav saib poj niam thiab ntxim nyiam.