Keeb Kwm
Lub keeb kwm ntawm ntsuj plig pib los ntawm lub sij hawm immemorial. Cov neeg tau tshawb pom qhov txawv txav ntawm cov ntxhiab tsw uas muaj peev xwm tsim tau txoj kev xav mus rau qhov zoo. Nyob rau lub sij hawm ancient, thaum lub sijhawm ua kevcai raus tes, cov pov thawj ntawm cov ntseeg pagan kub hnyiab, cov hauv paus ntawm cov nroj tsuag thiab paj hauv cov qaib. Lawv ntseeg tias "haus luam yeeb" yuav tso vajtswv rau lawv, thiab tsim kom muaj kev thaj yeeb ntawm kev tsis paub thiab kev tsis pom ntawm qhov teeb meem. Txawm li cas los xij, xyab kuj tau qhuas cov neeg hauv lub tuam tsev.
Thawj cov neeg ua rau cov neeg tawg rog feem ntau yog cov neeg Iyiv. Lawv rubbed lawv lub cev nrog cov roj thiab tshuaj pleev nrog cov tsis hnov tsw ntawm cinnamon los yog zib mu. Thiab cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawd kim heev uas nws tsuas paub nws. Tus legendary poj huab tais Cleopatra tau hais kom moisten lub sails ntawm nws ships nrog dab, thiaj li hais tias divine tsw yuav qhia nws tuaj.
Nyob rau hauv Persia, ntawm cov nplua nuj, nws raug suav hais tias yog ib txoj kev zoo rau kev loj hlob violets, jasmine, lilies thiab liab Roses hauv lawv lub vaj, thiaj li yuav siv lawv ua kua xyaw. Nws yog rau cov Pawxia uas peb tshuav tus tsim muaj dej sawv. Lub Greeks ancient tau sim ua cov ntaub ntawv los ntawm kev sib txawv tsw thiab sau lawv cov zaub mov, cov ncauj lus txog kev uas cov nroj tsuag tsim yam khoom noj. Thiab cov neeg Loos tau xuas lawv cov ntsej muag, tom qab uas lawv tau muab roj pleev ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Hauv Nrab Hnub nyoog, cov naj hle xyaw naj hle tau siv rau lub npog ntsej muag tsw ntxhiab tsw tshwm sim vim cov neeg pluag tsis zoo. Nws yog ces hais tias kua dab tau tsim los ntawm kev haus dej cawv thiab cov roj ntsha tseem ceeb, peb paub tias peb tseem nyob deb thiab siv rau hauv perfumery.
Lub sij hawm dhau mus, tab sis ib qho txawv ntawm cov naj hoom tseem ua tau zoo li nrov. Nws yog lub npe hu tias Napoleon Bonaparte yog heev fond ntawm tsis hnov tsw ntawm jasmine thiab violets. Thiab nws txhais lus rau nws tus crowned neeg rau ib hnub txog li 12 liv ntawm naj hoom. Thiab nws tsis yog ib qho yooj yim whim. Huab tais ntseeg tias tus ntxhiab tsw qab nws pab nws kom tswj tau txoj kev sib ntaus sib tua. Thiab, dua li, nyob rau hauv cov tub rog campaigns nws siv perfumes rau disinfection. Los ntawm txoj kev, nyob rau hauv 1804 nws tau tsim cov thawj naj hoom thiab cov tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab tsim cov dej qab ntsev, uas nws hu ua chav dej.
Leej txiv ntawm perfumery niaj hnub yog Francois Coty. Nws tsis yog ib qho xwb "lub qhov ntswg", tab sis kuj yog ib lub lag luam zoo. Nws muaj lub tswv yim ntawm muag naj hoom nyob rau hauv zoo nkauj vials, thiab tsis nyob rau hauv yooj yim apothecary vials. Nws kuj pib muab cov ntxhiab tsw uas muaj ntxhiab tsw ntxhiab rau thawj zaug. Thiaj li nyob rau hauv 1917 lub aroma "Chypre" tau tsim, uas coj Koti ntiaj teb koob meej. Nta hnub no cov txheej txheem tso cai siv cov khoom xyaw zoo kawg tshaj plaws. Nyob rau hauv qhov muag los ntawm ib tug lossis loj tus naj npawb ntawm cov ntsuj plig, thiab xaiv "lawv tus kheej" tuaj yeem nyuaj heev. Tab sis peb yuav sim los nkag siab txog qhov sib txawv ntawm no.
Xaiv naj hoom
Thaum xaiv ib qho ntxhiab tsw, ib tug yuav tsum xub ua txhua yam nco qab tias txhua tus neeg muaj qhov tshwj xeeb "tawv chemistry". Qhov no txhais tau hais tias cov ntsujplig uas koj nyiam "ntawm tus hluas nkauj", tuaj yeem txawv ntawm koj cov tawv nqaij. Naj npawb yuav tsum xaiv ib tus zuj zus. Txhawm rau muab ntawm no ib co tswv yim yog qhov nyuaj, tab sis nws muaj qee txoj cai.
Kws txawj tsis pom zoo kom tuaj rau tom khw thiab sim ua txhua yam. Nws tsis zoo li tias qhov no yuav pab koj xaiv qhov yog. Koj tuaj yeem kuaj tus txheem ntawm ntau tshaj 3 vials. Txwv tsis pub, koj "hnia", tsis meej pem thiab tau txais tsis yog qhov koj xav tau.
Yog tias koj tus kheej nrog cov ntsujplig, yuav tsum taug kev nrog lawv mus ib ntus, yog li ntawd cov ntxhuav yuav qhib tag. Dhau ntawm, ntawm koj cov tawv nqaij, nws tuaj yeem hloov me ntsis. Thiab koj yuav tsum tau tsom mus rau lub "tsheb nqaj hlau", vim nws yuav nrog koj txhua hnub.
Cov ntaub ntawv no yog tsim los ntawm lub hauv paus ntawm triad: ib qho pib (lossis sab saud), lub ntsiab lus tseem ceeb (lossis lub cim ntawm lub plawv), thiab sau ntawv (lossis "loop"). Tom qab siv cov ntawv no maj mam hloov ib leeg, thiab cov ntxhiab raws li nws tau "qhib".
Nws yog qhov zoo tshaj rau khoom Tshuag tau ntau yam khoom plig rau ib qho kev xav thiab txawv sijhawm. Los ntawm txoj kev, koj tuaj yeem nyeem cov lus piav qhia hauv cov ntawv xov xwm, cov ntawv xov xwm advertising los yog cov ntawv teev npe. Muaj ntau zaus cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov naj hoom qab zib: romantic, sporty, refined thiab thiaj li. Tej zaum lawv yuav qhia koj yam uas tsis hnov tsw xav kom tsim tau ib cov duab.
Tsis tas li ntawd, nws tsis yog ib qho tseem ceeb heev rau kev them nyiaj rau lub ntim thiab lub npe. Feem ntau qhov tsim ntawm naj hoom (tshwj xeeb tshaj yog xim) hnov nws tus cwj pwm. Kev xyaum qhia tau hais tias nws yog qhov nyuaj heev los ntsib huab cua citrus naj hoom rau hauv lub thawv ntsa gloomy.
Yog tias koj nyiam qee yam khoom qab zib, nco ntsoov lub khw. Tej zaum koj tseem yuav nyiam nws cov tshiab flavours, raws li qee yam xws li ib hom khoom lossis tus tsim qauv yuav nyiam.
Peb siv nws nrog kom zoo dua
Tam sim no ob peb lo lus hais txog kev siv. Cov ntsuj plig muab tso rau sab hauv ntawm lub dab teg thiab lub luj tshib, tom qab pob ntseg, nyob rau hauv lub decollete thiab nyob rau hauv lub hauv caug - ces tus ntxhiab "los txog lub neej" nrog txhua lub zog koj ua. Koj tuaj yeem tseem txhuam koj cov plaub hau (tshwj xeeb tshaj yog qhov zoo ntawm cov xauv dej) los yog khaub ncaws (tsuas yog zoo - nws tuaj yeem stains). Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb heev uas yuav tsum nco ntsoov tias cov ntsuj plig nyob ntawm seb koj yuav nyob qhov twg. Nws tsis yog kom zoo txaus ntseeg nyob rau hauv ib chav me me. Thiab feem ntau yog ib tug suffocating, ntaus hauv lub qhov ntswg, albeit ntxiag nyob rau hauv txhua txhua tus hwm, qhov tsis hnov tsw yog suav hais tias yog ib daim ntawv phem. Thiab tsis txhob hnov qab tias hws strengthens tus ntxhiab. Yog li ntawd, yog tias nws kub hauv chav los yog ntawm txoj kev, siv cov ntsuj plig kom zoo, yog tias txhua tus neeg yuav khiav tawm ntawm koj.
Siv cov naj hoom tib yam, nws thiaj li tau siv rau nws thiab tsis pom nws. Thiab tom qab ntawd koj tsis tuaj yeem txiav txim siab seb koj puas muaj zog los sis tsis muaj zog. Yog li ntawd, txawm tias qee lub sij hawm tus ntsuj plig yuav tsum tau hloov thiaj li yuav tau txais me ntsis tawm ntawm qhov tsis nyiam ntxhiab tsw. Tab sis, ces, ntawm chav kawm, koj yuav rov qab mus rau nws.
Khaub naj hoom yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws rau hauv pob, nyiam dua hauv qhov chaw txias. Tab sis nws zoo yog tias koj muab cov hwj ntawm rooj rau khaub ncaws hauv chav. Qhov loj tshaj plaws - hais tias muaj tsis kub. Tom qab tag nrho, los ntawm tshav kub thiab tshav ntuj, tus ntsuj plig ploj mus sai heev - qhov no yog qhia los ntawm kev hnov tsw thiab xim. Koj tsis tuaj yeem khaws cov npuas hauv chav dej. Muaj ntau zaus hloov qhov kub, thiab qhov no ua rau tus txheem ntawm cov hwj huam zoo nkauj ua rau disrepair. Yog tias koj tsis paub meej tias koj yuav tau ua kom ntau dua, tsis txhob ntim cov pob loj. Cov dej qab ntsev tsis tuaj yeem "nyob tau" mus ib txhis, yog li ntawd nws yuav yog ib tug pity yog hais tias lub aroma spoils, thiab tsis tau "nyob rau hauv cov qus."
Thiab tsis txhob hnov qab tias tam sim no naj hoom yog ib qho ntawm kev nthuav qhia tus kheej. Nws tuaj yeem cuam tshuam rau qhov koj pom tau los ntawm lwm tus. Tej ntsuj plig tuaj yeem ua rau koj muaj lub siab muag rau lwm tus neeg, los yog lawv tuaj yeem txeeb tau tag nrho lub tswv yim. Yog li, nco ntsoov tias thaum siv cov dej qab ntxhiab, xws li hauv txhua yam uas muaj kev txhawj txog koj qhov muag, yuav tsum muaj saj, tsis qaug zog thiab kev paub. Nws tsis yog tsis muaj dab tsi uas lawv hais tias tsim ib qho duab nrog kev pab los ntawm cov ntxhiab tsw yog ib qhov tseeb kos duab.
Hom Perfumes
Muaj ntau hom kev txawv txav. Txawm li cas los xij, nws yog txoj kev cai kom paub qhov txawv ntawm cov pawg hauv qab no.
Citrus txiv hmab txiv ntoo. Rau lawv cov khoom, cov roj muab los ntawm txiv qaub, mandarin, txiv kab ntxwv, txiv kab ntxwv, bergamot thiab lwm yam txiv hmab txiv ntoo zoo sib xws. Xws li flavors feem ntau yog lub teeb thiab tshiab.
Floral. Los ntawm lub npe, koj tuaj yeem twv tau tias lub hauv paus yog ntxhiab tsw tuaj: Rose, carnation, Lily, narcissus, violet, Lily ntawm lub hav, jasmine thiab lwm tus. Tej ntsuj plig feem ntau yog poj niam heev thiab yog li ntawd nrov.
Ntoo. Qhov loj tshaj plaws yog sandalwood, Rose Bush, patchouli, cedar, vetiver. Lawv feem ntau zoo nrog cov ntawv ntawm xiav iris, myrtle thiab musk. Cov ntsuj plig ntawm hom no muaj hnyav heev.
Ferns (khob tsom iav) . Nws yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws tias cov nroj tsuag qub tsis muaj dab tsi ua nrog rau cov dab no, thiab lawv muaj npe tom qab naj hoom Fougere Royale. Nws yog raws li tsis hnov tsw ntawm freshly mown quav nyab (thiaj li tsis hnov tsw cov khoom siv hluav taws xob ua ke coumarin, siv nyob rau hauv cov txheej txheem ntau lawm). Feem ntau cov dab no muaj qhov sib tw zaub mov. Kumarin feem ntau tov nrog sau ntawv ntawm geranium, lavender, ntoo, bergamot thiab ntoo qhib Moss.
Cov nkoj. Lub npe ntawm pawg neeg no tau mus los ntawm naj hoom "Chypre" los ntawm François Coty, uas nws tau hais lawm. Nws yog raws li tsis hnov tsw ntawm oak Moss, uas sau ntxiv ntawm cov roj-labdanum, patchouli, rein, lub noob, bergamot.
Ambreous (Sab hnub tuaj, los yog Khab) . Cov ntsuj plig ntawm hom no muaj qaim thiab muaj zog, lawv pom tias yav tsaus ntuj. Lawv yog cov hmoov nplej nrog hmoov, vanilla, cinnamon, spices, thiab kuj muaj cov npe "tsiaj ntawv".
Tawv. Pawg no ntau dua ntawm tus txiv neej naj hoom. Qhov tseem ceeb tsw: juniper, birch tar, haus luam yeeb, hlawv ntoo, haus luam yeeb.
Txhua yam ntawm ntau yam tseem ceeb ntawm flavors muaj xws li ib tug loj heev ntawm subgroups. Tsis tas li ntawd, muaj lwm yam. Piv txwv, txiv hmab txiv ntoo, ntsuab, marine, ntsim, aldehyde . Cov tom kawg (aldehyde) yog tshuaj, lawv ua los ntawm cov ntxhiab tsw ntxhiab. Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm aldehyde naj hoom yog Chanel No. 5.
Tsis tas li ntawd, flavours yog muab faib ua hom nyob ntawm qhov kev xav, uas cuam tshuam qhov persistence ntawm naj hoom. Qhov siab dua qhov feem pua, qhov ruaj dua qhov tsw, tsawg dua nws yog yuav tsum tau siv thaum siv:
- Nqaij (parfum, extrait) - concentration ntawm 20-30%.
- Dej dej, dej-naj hoom (eau de parfum, Parfum de Toilette, Esprit de parfum) - concentration ntawm 15-25%.
- Dej tso dej (Eau de Toilette) - concentration of 10-20%.
Txog naj hoom, naj hoom, keeb kwm ntawm dab, quotations thiab cov nqe lus hais txog ntsuj plig qhia thiab sau ntawv ntau. Tab sis ntau vividly thiab concisely hais txog tus ntsuj plig ntawm Coco Chanel: "Naj hoom yog ib qho tsis pom, tab sis unforgettable, unrivaled, fashionable accessory. Nws tshaj tawm qhov pom ntawm ib tug poj niam thiab tseem nco ntsoov nws ntawm thaum nws tawm mus. "