Lub keeb kwm ntawm Lavxias teb sab naj hoom pib, raws li lawv hais, "kev noj qab haus huv". Cov naj hoom txawv teb chaws, leej twg tsis muaj hmoo heev nyob rau hauv lawv cov teb chaws, tau tsiv mus rau Russia, qhov chaw uas lawv nthuav tawm nrog lub siab thiab lub ntsiab. Tau, thiab Lavxias tebchaw "noses", muaj kev kawm tau zoo nyob rau txawv teb chaws los yog ua haujlwm ua cov neeg kawm tiav, "muab" lawv lub teb chaws lawv cov peev xwm: Lavxias perfumery - aromatic khoom ua ntau thiab nrov dua. Thaum kawg ntawm lub XIX - lub npe ntawm A. Ferrein lub npe thoob plaws lub tebchaws, thiab cov khoom siv ntawm Imperial Tsev Hais Plaub - A. Ostroumov, G. Brokar, A. Ralle thiab A. Siu - twb paub tsis yog nyob hauv Russia xwb, tab sis kuj nyob txawv teb chaws. Yog li ntawd, Alexander Ostroumov tau los ua ib qho koob rau xab npum los ntawm kev sib tw, thiab tom qab ntawd nws tau qhib nws tus kheej perfumery factory.
Lub npe "lub qhov ntswg" Alfons Ralle nkag rau lub Lavxias teb sab perfume - cov khoom uas muaj ntxhiab tsis yog los ntawm Imperial Tsev Hais Plaub, tab sis kuj rau Nws Majesty cov Vaj Ntxwv ntawm Persia thiab Nws High Prince Prince Chernogorsky. Nws ruaj txais lub xeev Emblem ntawm Russia plaub zaug - qhov khoom plig tshaj plaws, muab rau cov khoom zoo. Nws yog nyob rau ntawm lub hoobkas "A. Ralle thiab Co. "pib raws li ib tug kuaj pab Ernest Bo (tus sau ntawm Chanel nto moo tsib). Yog hais tias nws tsis yog rau lub kiv puag ncig uas ua rau cov neeg muaj peev xwm hla mus tau zoo, nws yuav tsum coj tus thawj coj ntawm lub tuam txhab, thiab nws tsis paub tias dab tsi yuav tsum sib tw ntawm "ntiaj teb naj hoom deck". Lwm trump card pre-revolutionary Lavxias teb sab perfumery - Heinrich Brokar. Qhov kev ntseeg no "lub qhov ntswg" yog ib hom ntawm Fabkis. Tuaj txog hauv Russia, nws qhib nws lub lag luam thiab pib pib ua tsis naj hoom, tab sis tshuaj tsw qab. Muaj ntau hauv nws tes haujlwm, Henry tshuav nws tus poj niam - Charlotte. Nws yog nws uas tau sim ua rau nws muaj kev yeej-yeej qhov kev xaiv: muag ib qho khoom plig uas pheej yig "khoom plig" (tsis zoo nkauj) - pob zoo li thiab muaj cov ntawv sau ntawm cov tsiaj ntawv. Brokarovskaya advertising ua ib byword. Ntawm qhov qhib ntawm ib qho ntawm cov khw muag khoom muaj muag rau cov buyers: tsuas yog rau ruble nws tau mus rau ib txheej ntawm kaum cov khoom, uas muaj naj hoom, cologne, lustrine, toilet vegar, vaseline, hmoov, puff, sachet, mem pleev di ncauj, xab npum. Txoj kev zoo siab yog qhov uas tub ceev xwm tau kaw lub khw.
Lwm cov khoom ntawm Lavxias teb sab perfumery - cov khoom uas muaj ntxhiab tsw - cologne "Paj" - kuj tuav tag nrho ntawm Moscow. Nyob hauv Tag Nrab Tag Nrho Lav Xias thiab Kos Taws Pom Zoo "Artificial Spectacular" tau tsim tsa, uas yog ib tug neeg tuaj yeem ua rau khaub hlab, hnab looj tes thiab txawm tias lub tsho loj. Lub tswv yim ua kom muaj kev vam meej tias "Paj" ua los ntawm Russia thawj pawg cologne. Thaum Grand Duchess Maria Aleksandrovna tuaj mus rau Moscow rau ib tug mus xyuas, Brokar nthuav tawm nws nrog ib tug bouquet ntawm paj paj - Roses, lilies ntawm Valley, violets, daffodils. Thiab txhua txhua tus paj tau khi nrog tus ntxhiab tsw. Admired Maria Aleksandrovna tau tso cai rau lub npe ntawm tus tswv ntawm lub tsev hais plaub.
Lub "Brokar thiab Co" sib koom tes tau loj hlob heev uas yog tus naj hoom ntawm Lavxias teb sab "Brokar Empire", thiab nws cov kua roj muag tau muag rau ntau lub tebchaws European. Nyob rau ntau lub teb chaws thoob ntiaj teb, lub hoobkas tau txais 14 kub medals, dhau los ua tus neeg muag khoom tsis yog ntawm Lavxias Imperial Tsev Hais Plaub, tab sis kuj yog lub tsev noob nom noob tswv Spanish, thiab nyob rau hauv lub tuam txhab kos npe muaj peb lub xeev emblems, lees tias lub siab tshaj plaws ntawm cov khoom.
Yog tias Brokar pib ua ib qho tshuaj ntxuav tes, tom qab perfumer Adolf Siu - ua ib lub khw ntawm cov yob thiab khoom qab zib. Muaj ib tug zoo nkauj dlej nyiaj tau los ntawm kev ua lag luam confectionery, Siu txiav txim siab ua perfumery thiab thiaj li succeeded hauv no ua lag luam uas nws pib muab cov Imperial Court tsis tsuas nrog nws cov ncuav, tab sis nrog perfumes. Nws xyab koom ua tshooj ntawm "tshuaj tsw qab" thiab tsis muaj rau txhua leej txhua tus. Hauv ntej, txoj kev ua lag luam naj hoom nyob hauv teb chaws Asmeskas ua ntej pib tawm plaws. Thiab ces lub xyoo 1917 tsoo tawm ...
"Thaum kuv dhia hauv" Corsair ", kuv niaj hnub siv lub Violette naj hoom ..." Elena Podolskaya, Opera soloist: "Koj tus naj hoom" Zoo tagnrho "yog nyob puag ncig kuv nrog rau qhov zoo txaus ntshai , hais tias, nqus lawv, kuv mus kev, raws li nyob rau hauv lub neej ntawm fragrant paj. " Raisa Reisen, actress ntawm Maly Theatre: "Yog Napoleon tau raug teeb meem los ntawm Napoleon witty, Josephine yuav tsis tau ntxeev siab rau nws."
Phoenix, reborn los ntawm cov tshauv
Post-revolutionary Russia ... Ntawm cov txheej txheem: lub eradication ntawm tag nrho cov bourgeois. Thiab nrog rau perfumery - feem ntau bourgeois ntawm tag nrho cov bourgeois ntau qhov chaw. Lub teb chaws tshiab tau nqus cov pa luam yeeb ntawm cov factories, kev noj qab haus huv ua hauj lwm hws thiab lub cev huv. Cov tub rog Liab cov tub rog thiab tib neeg yuav tsum tau tsuas xab npum - thiab tsis muaj dab tsi ntxiv. Tus so yog bourgeois remnants. Yog li ntawd, tag nrho cov naj hoom fais fab tau txais cov kab zauv thiab muab ntxig rau xab npum. Lub tuam txhab Ralle tau los ua "Xab Npum Tsob Nruab Nrab Xwm 4", thiab tom qab - Xab npum Xab Npum thiab Tshuaj Yeeb Tsho "Svoboda". "Brokar" muab rau hauv lub xeev "Xab npum" thiab "perfumeery plant number 5" (tom qab "New Zarya"), "Siu" - nyob rau hauv lub koomhaum "Bolshevik", "Bodlo thiab Co" - nyob hauv lub hoobkas "Dawn".
Thaum lub sij hawm NEP, lub sij hawm ntawm naj hoom tau rov qab pib dua, tab sis nyob hauv Stalin lub sijhawm nws tuaj sai sai rau qhov kawg-tsis tseem ceeb. Tus poj niam zoo nkauj tshaj plaws ntawm Soviet elite, tus "thib ob poj niam ntawm lub USSR", tus poj niam Molotov, Polina Zhemchuzhina, tau koom nrog "sib zog" nrog Stalin rau cov khoom vaj tsev nyob. Nws hloov thawj tus thawj coj ntawm "Tshiab Dawn" A. Zvezdov, pauv mus rau lwm txoj haujlwm. Tom qab ntawd, lub Pearl tau pib los ntawm kev ntseeg "Fatness", sib sau tag nrho cov tshuaj tsw qab thiab tshuaj pleev ib ce, thiab ob peb xyoos tom qab ntawd nws tau tsa lub taub hau ntawm General Directorate ntawm naj hoom, tshuaj pleev ib ce, khoom siv hluav taws xob thiab xab npum. Nws yog Polina Zhemchuzhina uas tau tswj hwm Stalin tsis txhob muab tua pov tseg, nws tau ua pov thawj tias "perfumery yog thaj chaw cia siab, muaj txiaj ntsig thiab tsim nyog rau cov neeg". Thiab nws txawm tau yaum cov "txiv ntawm cov neeg" kom muab "zoo" rau cov roj ntsha uas tseem ceeb. Yog li ntawd, Russia perfumery nrhiav tau tus thib ob, kuj ncaj ncees lub neej.
Xyoo 1930, qhov tshwj xeeb ntawm Lavxias teb sab perfumery - cov khoom uas muaj ntxhiab thiab cov khoom siv - cov khoom qab zib ntawm cov Factories "Svoboda" thiab "Bolshevik" tau raug tshaj los ntawm "New Dawn". Yog li ntawd "Tshiab Dawn" tau txais ib qhov kev lag luam ntawm cov khoom ua cov naj hoom. Muaj lwm yam tshuaj tsw qab thiab cov khoom lag luam hauv koom haum Union, tab sis lawv tsis tau txhais cov tog neeg "perfumery policy."
Nyob rau ntawm cov txheej txheem ntawm cov factories muaj naj hoom muaj ib lo lus nug tseem ceeb heev: yuav ua li cas kom ntseeg tau hais tias tus ntsuj plig tau qhia txog pawg neeg txoj cai? Nws tau ua hauj lwm tawm txoj cai tseem ceeb: tsis nco qab txog kev ua kom txaus thiab cov khoom xyaw tsis zoo. Aromas xav tau los ntawm cov neeg ua haujlwm, uas txhais tau hais tias lawv yuav tsum yooj yim, to taub thiab "ntxiv dag zog rau txoj kev vam meej". Muaj coob tus neeg niaj hnub pom tias cov ntsuj plig ntawm lub caij Sov yog qhov tseem ceeb thiab hnyav, thiab palette aromatic tseem txom nyem.
Txawm li cas los, maj, kauj ruam yog kauj ruam ntawm domestic perfumery "yeej" txoj haujlwm poob. Los ntawm cov brokar "bins" tau hnov qab cov qauv, lub tsev "noses" raug coj mus rau kev sim, thaj tsam ntawm "cov khoom noj khoom haus elite" tau tsim. Phoenix tau reborn los ntawm cov tshauv. Qhov tseeb, thawj cov nkauj yog "New Dawn" los ntawm "Tshiab Dawn", nws tus ntsuj plig tau nyiam qhov chaw zoo (zoo, tsis muaj kev sib tw, thiab lwm yam teeb meem txawv teb chaws tsis tau npau suav ntawm ib tus pej xeem hauv Soviet). Lub tuam txhab tau nthuav tawm nws cov flavors ntawm thoob ntiaj teb exhibitions thiab txawm tau txais khoom plig prestigious. Niaj hnub no, lub npe nrov naj hoom - "Red Moscow", "Dub Box", "Blue Casket", "Pob zeb Paj" - yog muag tsawg kawg ntawm cov nqi kim. Thaj av Lavxias thaj chaw perfumery flourished, as Well as txhua lub lag luam tom qab "Hlau Kab Hlau" thaum tsis muaj kev sib tw loj heev. Tab sis tam sim no lwm xob quaj tsoo tawm - qhov teeb meem ntawm kev lag luam, poob hauv kev tsim, lub cev qhuav dej ntawm lub USSR ...
Rov los ntawm kos
Thaum twg cov khoom ntawm Western cov roj poured mus rau hauv lub lag luam domestic, Lavxias teb sab lub tuam txhab uas muag khoom Lavxias perfumery - cov khoom uas muaj ntxhiab tsis tuaj yeem sawv qhov sib txeeb thiab nkag mus rau hauv ntxoov ntxoo. Tau kawg, tom qab lub cev qhuav dej, Lavxias teb tus tswv yuav tsum pib siv "los ntawm khawb" - kawm ntawm sab hnub poob, kom rov nco txog "yawm txiv txoj kev ua" thiab sim ua nws txoj kev nyob rau thaj tsam kev tu tsiaj-perehozhennom ntawm perfumery. Txawm li cas los xij, rov qab ua dua tshiab ntawm kev noj qab haus huv yog ib qho kev ua tsaug. Cov qauv tsim ib lub xyoo dhau los thiab raws li tsuas siv cov khoom xyaw xwb, tam sim no tsis muaj tseeb thiab "zoo", tsawg kawg, laus-fashioned. Hom tshuaj laboratories hauv plag yog qhov tsis zoo rau thaj tsam ntawm cov khoom siv thiab tsis tuaj yeem tsim los tsim cov khoom qub. Tsis tas li ntawd, ntau lub koom txoos tsis raug cai uas ua rau cov khoom qis tau zoo siv, thiab muaj cov neeg coob coob tau txais kev pom zoo. Yog li ntawd, tus tswv ntawm Lavxias tebchaw tau kawg poob kev ntseeg siab rau cov "haiv neeg" thiab nyiam siv cov khoom ntawm Western tuam txhab. Hnub no, cov tshuaj tsw qab muaj ntxhiab ntau dua li tus menyuam tsis muaj qhov tsis zoo. Tsis paub meej hais tias tus neeg tau txais kev pab yog ua los ntawm "New Dawn", los sis qhov uas nws yog tus ntxiv tom ntej - "Nouvelle Etoile". Yuavtsum thuam lub sijhawm thaum lawv ntshai nrog lawv cov npe. "Lub Sij Hawm ntawm Poj Niam", "The Mania of the Night", "Zoo Nkauj Zoo", "Tus Hluas Zoo Nkauj", "Lub Neej Nyob Hauv Txoj Kev Lom Zem", "Ua Raws Li Thaum Hmo" - lub suab zoo li kev thuam. "Lwm tus naj hoom," kws txawj hais tias, "tsw qab" ntawm sab ntsuj plig hnov: "Kuznetsk choj" zoo li Climat los ntawm Lancome, "Lavxias zoo nkauj" - Coco Mademoiselle los ntawm Chanel, "Talisman of love" - Angel los ntawm Thierry Mugler. Qhov tsim ntawm cov pob khoom thiab hwj - tho txawv thiab unattractive - yog tsis zoo rau txawv teb chaws tsim. Tau, thiab advertising tawm ntau yuav tsum tau xav. Nyob rau hauv ib lo lus, yog cov tuam txhab hauv domestic txiav txim siab thaum kawg rov qab muab tus neeg siv khoom noj (thiab lwm lub teb chaws lub lag luam tswj kev tshaj li 60 feem pua hnub ntawm Lavxias teb sab "fragrant" hnub no), txoj kev tawm tsam tseem ceeb heev. Txawm li cas los xij, lub "thib peb xyoo" ntawm Lavxias teb sab perfumery yog nyuam qhuav pib, thiab, tej zaum, nws yuav rov qab mus txog qhov siab, uas nws tau tawg tas.
NOUVELLE ETOILE
Nws tsis yog tuam txhab txawv teb chaws txhua qhov, tiam sis peb tus kheej "Tshiab kaj ntug". Lub tuam txhab tau koom tes nrog Fabkis cov neeg koom tes tau kaum xyoo, thiab ntau yam khoom plig ntawm lub Hoobkas raug tsim tawm hauv French laboratories. Lub tswv yim txuas ntxiv ntawm kev koom tes no yog lub npe ntawm lub tuam txhab.