Ntau zaus peb tsis yuav cov khoom no lossis lwm cov khoom siv kom zoo nkauj vim yog peb ntshai los ntawm cov npe ntawm lawv lub cheebtsam. Nws zoo nkaus li txhua yam hais tsis tau tas yog qhov kev nyab xeeb rau kev noj qab haus huv. Tab sis qhov no tsis yog li ntawd. Yog li, qhov kev nthuav qhia ntawm lub ncauj lus: Chemistry hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce yog pab tau rau txhua tus poj niam. Peb muaj cai paub seb peb yuav khoom li cas.
AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids) yog cov organic acids uas muaj hauv cov nroj tsuag thiab txiv hmab txiv ntoo. Lawv xav tias yuav yog ib qho ntawm cov qauv zoo tshaj plaws rau cov tshuaj chiv, vim lawv tsis hlawv daim tawv nqaij, tab sis ua rau lub qhov muag ntawm cov keratinized hlwb exfoliation. Nyob hauv ib lub ntsiab lus me me yog ib feem ntawm ntau lub tsev ua qij. Feem ntau, nrog cov tshuaj ANA-acids, cov tshuaj pleev plhu muaj BHA-acids (beta-hydroxy acids) -salicylic acid, uas tsis zoo li AHA penetrates rau hauv cov pores thiab exfoliates lub hlwb uas noog hauv cov qog sebaceous.
Cov tshuaj tiv thaiv antioxidants yog cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob ntawm cov tawv nqaij los ntawm kev puas tsuaj ntawm cov dawb radicals thiab lwm yam tshuaj uas pom tshwm sim los ntawm ntuj oxidative kev tig cev hauv peb lub cev. Lub ntsiab antioxidants siv tshuaj pleev ib ce yog cov vitamins A, C, E, kab kawm, selenyum, zinc, rho ntawm algae.
Hyaluronic acid - ib qho ntawm cov khoom zoo tshaj plaws hauv cov moisturizers, yog dav siv nyob rau hauv contour plastics. Nws yog hais txog ntawm daim tawv nqaij, raws li nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov ntaub so ntswg ntawm cov epidermis. Muaj peev xwm tuav dej ntawm cov dej, tab sis tsis zoo li glycerin retains nws muaj peev xwm moisturize thiab nyob rau hauv ib daim ntawv "qhuav".
Glycerin muaj cov cim tshwj xeeb nyiam thiab khaws cov dej khov dej. Thov nws tsuas nrog humidifiers, yog li nws tsis tsuas enriches daim tawv nqaij nrog dej, tab sis kuj tiv thaiv nws evaporation. Hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, ib lub qauv ntawm glycerin nyiaj rau tsawg kawg 10 dej lwg me me.
Ceramides yog cov tshuaj uas tsim tawm ntawm daim tawv nqaij ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Tivthaiv nws ntawm lwm qhov kev tsis zoo thiab lub cev qhuav dej. Lawv sau lawv tus kheej nrog kev puas tsuaj rau saum npoo txheej ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab ua rau lub plhaus nkawg ntawm cov kab mob. Feem ntau siv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce rau cov tawv nqaij qhuav thiab dehydrated thiab cov khoom hauv cov plaub hau.
Collagen - lub ntsiab protein ntawm cov ntaub so ntswg ntawm cov epidermis, yog lub luag haujlwm rau lub elasticity thiab elasticity ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Siv dav hauv cov laus los tiv thaiv kev laus. Muaj ib qho kev mob siab heev rejuvenating siv, nyob rau hauv ib daim ntawv concentrated thiaj li tob wrinkles.
Coenzyme yog ib qho bioactive tivthaiv, tsimnyog qhov chaw tsimnyog hluav taws xob rau ntau hom tshuaj metabolic hauv tag nrho cov kabmob thiab cov tawv nqaij. Coenzyme yog ua ke nyob rau hauv lub siab ntawm txhua tus neeg, tab sis nrog lub hnub nyoog, nws cov khoom slows down. Hauv cosmetology, coenzyme Q10 yog siv hauv cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus.
Nanoparticles - yam mob nrog lub cev yam tsawg kawg nkaus, vim lawv muaj peev xwm ua tau yooj yim nkag mus rau hauv cov khaubncaws sab nraud povtseg ntawm cov kabmob epidermis. Qhov loj ntawm lub nanoparticle txawv ntawm 1 txog 100 nanometers, thiab 1 nanometer yog 0.000000001 meters. Nanoparticles tsuas yog tsim los ntawm cov khoom tsim. Thiab hnub no nanocosmetics yog lub tshiab tshaj plaws ntawm cov khoom siv tshuaj aesthetic.
Cov tshuaj tsw qab yog sib xyaw ntawm Cheebtsam cov kabmob, nws lub luag haujlwm yog zais qee zaus tsis yog qhov tsw qab tshaj plaws ntawm cov khoom xyaw. Cov tshuaj tsw qab ua rau pleev xim zoo nkauj, tab sis nws tseem nco qab tias nws yog qhov txawv txav uas feem ntau ua rau fab tshuaj tawv nqaij ntawm cov tawv nqaij.
Parabens yog universal preservatives uas ntev lub txee lub neej ntawm cosmetic khoom. Raws li kev txheeb cais, nyob hauv ntau hom tshuaj siv yog 85% ntawm cov khoom siv. Qee lub sij hawm dhau los, cov kws tshawb fawb tau sib tham txog qhov teeb meem ntawm cov txiaj ntsig thiab kev piam sij ntawm parabens rau lub cev, tab sis lawv tsis tuaj rau cov lus tsis txaus ntseeg. Txawm li cas los, qhov no coj mus rau cov tsos ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce nrog ntuj preservatives.
Provitamins yog cov as-ham uas muab hloov rau hauv cov vitamins hauv lub cev. Provitamin A yog carotene, thiab provitamin B-5 yog D-panthenol.
Proteins yog cov keeb kwm muaj protein ntau uas ua rau muaj zog ntawm cov kab mob hauv hlwb. Muaj cov tsiaj txhu (khoom noj) los yog nroj tsuag (nplej, lo lo ntxhuav).
Retinol - ib hom tshuaj vitamin A, stimulates lub hlwb ntawm lub hlwb thiab lwm yam metabolic txheej txheem ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Nws yog siv los ua ib qho kev tivthaiv hauv kev tshuaj pleev tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus thiab rau kev kho mob ntawm cov tawv nqaij mob ntsws thiab pob txuv.
SPF ( Tshav ntuj Kev tiv thaiv Lim ) - lim dej lim hnub uas tsim ib qho "npuaj" ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Los ntawm cov ntawv pov hwm SPF tuaj yeem sib txawv ntawm 2 mus rau 60 units. SPF tuaj yeem ua ob hom: tawm tsam UV rays ntawm spectrum B (UVB) thiab spectrum A (UVA). Lub cev muaj pes tsawg tus sunscreens yuav tsum muaj ob hom SPF, tab sis qhov kev tiv thaiv ntawm cov rays ntawm spectrum B yog feem ntau dua.
Flavonoids muaj tshuaj nyob rau hauv lub luag hauj lwm ntawm cov xim txiv hmab txiv ntoo thiab zaub. Ntxiv dag zog rau cov hlab ntsha, txhawm rau ua kom cov kab mob microcirculation, muaj cov nyhuv. Qee hom flavonoids muaj cov khoom zoo nkauj, lawv feem ntau hu ua phytohormones, raws li lawv zoo sib xws nyob rau hauv cov qauv thiab cov nyhuv nrog estrogens.
Emulsifiers - stabilizers, tiv thaiv kom txhob muaj cov kabmob emulsion rau hauv cov khoom. Lawv siv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce los khaws lub tshooj los ntawm cov khoom nyuab nyuab, piv txwv, dej thiab cov roj yam tseem ceeb.
Cov kua roj carbon monoxide yog cov organic compounds uas ua rau cov kev coj noj coj ua nyob rau hauv cov tawv nqaij, nrog rau cov txheej txheem ntawm kev tsim kho tshiab. Cov kua paug enzyme tau pom tias yog feem ntau me thiab khov, thaum exfoliating nrog cov enzymes, daim tawv nqaij tsis hnov mob. Enzymes ntawm zaub keeb kwm yog feem ntau muab los ntawm papaya thiab pineapple.
Qhov kawg ntawm kev nthuav qhia kev ua yeeb yam ntawm "Chemistry in Cosmetics" Kuv xav ntxiv tias koj tsis tas yuav ntshai ntawm cov lus txawv txawv, tab sis koj yuav tsum tsis thuam lawv kiag li. Nws yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws kom muaj tsawg kawg nkaus cov ntaub ntawv hais txog lub cheebtsam ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, kom paub lawv lub zog ntawm koj lub cev. Thiab ces nws yuav yooj yim xaiv, thiab qhov ua tau zoo yuav ntau dua.